Our New York fall ’11 preview

Calvin Klein

Francisco Costa’s latest obsession: texture.
   Moving away from summer’s more fluid and languid lined shapes, the collection this season saw a more refined focus from designer Francisco Costa on all things texture. Bold graphic and geometric ’60s mod shifts, A-line skirts and cocoon coats gave a canvas for the stars of the show, alpacas, cashmeres, calf hair, jacquards and deep, rich, piled wools to shine upon. A monochromatic palette of beige, camel, white and jet black allowed the fabrics to speak. Precision cutting and interesting mixing of fabrics really made the collection return to the Calvin Klein DNA.

Adrienne Vittadini

Adrienne Vittadini organized a presentation for the spectators, however shortly after the lights dimmed down, the presentation transformed into a lively and fun fashion show. Seven older top models walked the runway including Carol Alt, Roshumba Williams, Pat Cleveland, Niki Taylor, Carmen dell’Orefice, Irina Pantaeva and Frederique van der Wal. Adrienne Vittadini’s collection ranged from a long-sleeved, knee-high chic red dress tightly embracing the body to a casual long white skirt accompanied by a simple black top and a leather vest. Each model included a touch of their personality to the runway; Cleveland practically danced her way down the runway, dell’Orefice walked with grace as she turned from time to time, always keeping a smile on her face.

Tadashi Shoji
Inspired by gardens of the Far East, the rock formations in nature, the play of shadows and light and reflections upon water, red carpet favourite designer Tadashi Sohji showed an impeccable collection of wearable, sellable pieces that stayed true to form. Classic forms shaped this collection: a neutral palette of ecru and snow white was shown alongside jewel tones on magenta, cerulean blue, jade greens and mustards. Dresses came in either cocktail or floor length and each one beautifully embroidered, or embellished with organza, plumes of feathers or fringing. Geometric déco and tribal jewellery finished off the collection perfectly.

Vivienne Tam
Inspired by her native motherland, Vivienne Tam took inspiration from the costumes of the Kun Opera.
   Structured coats with stand and oversized collars, jackets with pagoda shoulders, and A-line skirts all had a subtle touch of the orient while dresses were embroidered with traditional leitmotifs of dragons, clouds and flowing rivers. Tam showed a much more subtle hand this season, which made the pieces more wearable and commercial and should see the pieces sell well. The colours of the orient—jade, crimson reds, navy and gold—were the order of the day.

Hervé Léger by Max Azria
Hervé Léger’s bandage dress is an instantly recognizable icon in the world of modern fashion. Hardware was used extensively in the collection. Gold and silver were used not just as embellishments, but as an integral part of the design; gold rectangles were sewn in amongst the bands; while buckle rings and chains were interwoven into the fabric of each dress. The collection recalled an almost Barbarella feel with the models in knee-high cut-out leather boots and the slick styling of the models’ hair and make-up. A muted and controlled colour palette of beige, camel, black and white keep things elegant.

Ivana Helsinki
Ivana Helsinki by Paola Ivana Suhonen, a wonderfully creative Finnish designer, brought Fashion Week to a close. Ivana Helsinki is the first Finnish brand to show at New York Fashion Week, and with the overflowing crowd in the venue, it was surely a hit! The designer incorporated flowing, sweet and classy dresses to portray a confident and charming young woman. The ensembles were accompanied by a slightly high-heeled pairs of leather boots designed with patches of different shades of colour. Hair was wrapped in a considerably high chignon, creating a delightfully new and stylish effect. The dresses were loose, comfortable and alluring, aiming to a considerably younger crowd. •

Calvin Klein


Tadashi Shoji


Vivienne Tam


Hervé Léger

Sopheak Seng is fashion editor of Lucire. Lola Saab is Paris editor of Lucire.