MAIN PHOTOGRAPH: People Tree’s latest chevron tops (£29), produced in Swallow, Bangladesh. ABOVE, FROM TOP: Raglan sleeve men’s sweat top, and organic cotton sweatshirt made in India (£22). Deepa blue hoodie, a cotton hooded trainer made in India. Blue training set. George knit khaki skirt in organic cotton skirt (£25) and red flint jacket, hand-knitted in Nepal (£60). BELOW LEFT: Women’s screen-printed pyjama set in organic cotton, burgundy and navy made in India (£42) and men's V-neck pyjama set in navy organic cotton (£32).

   Fair Trade, as a concept, believes that low prices, lack of market information, design and technical assistance are major causes of poverty. It pays a minimum price to producers for their traditional skills. It begins with the producers and their benefits and not from what Minney terms as 'ego-centric designs with little consideration as to where the product will be made'.
   Opponents say that Fair Trade helps push up wages and works against free-market principles, insulating producers who do not share in the equity of the brand to which their efforts contribute. Minney defends this. 'It is true that the availability of work through Fair Trade businesses have pushed up wages in rural areas by creating employment. But when the options for adults and their children are

People Tree begins with the producer, based in India, Bangladesh, Zimbabwe, Kenya, Nepal, Peru and another 12 countries. It seeks to combine them with consumer-pleasing design. Added to this is the company's strict environmental policy

hunger, lack of access to education and health and, in desperation, they are forced into insecure employment like prostitution, child labour and exploitation, I reckon that's fine!'
   Therefore, People Tree begins with the producer, based in India, Bangladesh, Zimbabwe, Kenya, Nepal, Peru and another 12 countries. Realizing that many of its poorer producer nations have traditional skills, it seeks to combine them with consumer-pleasing design. Added to this is the company's strict environmental policy. 'using organic cotton in 60 per cent of our clothing, and non-carcinogenic (azo-free) dyes and natural dyes throughout,' said Minney.
   It works with 250 producer groups in fashion, handcrafts and food. 'Most of these suppliers are IFAT [International Federation for Alternative Trade] members, and all work to Fair Trade standards,' she explained.
   People Tree has grown to four designers (with Minney at the helm) and 45 Fair Trade staff. She admits that hand-production does pressure her team, as products are made on hand-looms. Further, that the company invests a great deal of effort to ensure its strict environmental standards are met.
   However, Minney's design ethos helps when it comes to the lead times. 'My philosophy is that the clothing should feel great to wear because it looks good and because it is not laden with toxic chemicals. It also feels great to know that the shirt on your back has supported farmers and artisans alike to rebuild their communities.'
   The quality is what has drawn customers to People Tree in Japan, where she believes people are more convinced by trust, reputation, design and price than Fair Trade concepts. The Japanese have a 'deep appreciation of traditional skills like hand-weaving, natural dyeing and natural farming, and want to revive and promote these.' A 100 pp. catalogue-magazine covers articles on Fair Trade and is published three times a year, helping the brand's cause in Japan.
   Her ultimate aim is for People Tree to no longer be necessary—when all trade will be fair. To do so may require more companies following an ethical policy globally. Already there are plenty of movements relating to transparency and integrity—books such as Beyond Branding, which the author has co-written—as a backlash to the era of Wall Street greed. While People Tree will probably still be needed for years to come, it is refreshing to know that more consumers are very likely to find favour with its principles. • 

Jack Yan is founding publisher of Lucire.

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People Tree Japan
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