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With a nod to the new wave of Belgian designers, Denis Gagnon seemed to take fencing uniforms as a main inspiration

THIS PAGE: Denis Gagnon.

   Conspicuously absent were long-time participants and major labels such as Kamkyl, Yso, Nadya Toto and Marisa Minicucci with her M Siamo line. The omission of more informal in-studio or boutique presentations also kept the schedule lean and mean.
   Menswear designer Wai Keung Fong, who has shown his C’est Pas Grave collection in every past Fashion Week said, ‘I’m just too busy, otherwise I’d be here. Being part of Fashion Week has helped me tremendously in past years.’ Opening a new office and expanding his Rue St Denis shop, as well as working up a women’s line, have left him a bit overwhelmed.
   Still, there were many shining moments.
   Day one, Sunday. Opening event: Denis Gagnon. This is the designer whose début collection dazzled at MFW1. Last fall’s collection was a bit bleak and restrained, but for spring 2004 he’s once more pulled out the stops. The result was a brilliant and lavish display of his special talent. For men and women, it’s all about snowy white and pale beige, in fabric and leather combinations. As in a white asymmetrically cut leather skirt, the white-silk top brazenly baring one shoulder. The top, as did many other items in the collection, was decorated with hand-painted poetry by local journalist Yasmin Grothé.

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