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TOP ROW: Pelle
Pelle. SECOND ROW, LEFT: Pelle Pelle.
SECOND ROW, CENTRE: Indigo Red.
SECOND ROW, RIGHT: Vokal. THIRD
ROW, LEFT AND CENTRE: Giii & Carl Banks. THIRD
ROW, RIGHT: Croskey Furs. ABOVE:
Avirex.
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The day came alive with the
6 p.m. show. Croskey Furs rocked the room. Here was creativity at
work
The day-long affair at the Crowne Plaza Hotel
was broken up into four group shows highlighting the designs of
newcomers to the scene (Stall and Dean, Vokal, Indigo Red) and veterans
who have shown their previous collections at the Bryant Park tents
(Rocawear Ladies, Pelle Pelle, Avirex). I was told by a fellow attendee
that the earlier show collections are usually the weakest ones,
which at the time I thought was slightly harsh. But that turned
out to be a correct assessment.
The 2 p.m.
show showcased designs from Davoucci, Pass the Roc, Madsoul and
PNB Nation. It wasn’t the best start
to the day. With the exception of several outstanding pieces, it
was a retread of hip-hip greatest hits: the tracksuit: the oversized
hoodie jacket, basketball baggy shorts paired with equally oversized
tops, baggy oversized denim pants and jackets. The standout pieces
in this grouping were few and far between. They include Davoucci’s
signature leather jackets in black and various shades of brown,
a black leather-trimmed navy cardigan sweater (the best piece in
the whole Davoucci collection) and Madsoul’s bright orange warm-up
tracksuit (which made the cut because the colour itself was so outside
the realm). I also though the “geeky” bowling shirts from the PNB
Nation design team were cute, and a possible crossover hit.
The 4 p.m.
show (Stall and Dean, Indigo Red, Vokal, Giii & Carl Banks)
was a slight improvement. Stall and Dean showed some of the best
varsity letter jackets of the day. The Giii & Carl Banks design
team showed denim with colourful graphic designs and sports-inspired
wear (with jackets and shirts printed with the logos of teams from
the NFL, NBA,
NHL, MLB).
At least they demonstrated some unexpected creativity in their execution
but I was left with the following question: did they have permission
to use those logos? Inquiring minds want to know. Vokal utilized
velour in a very skilful manner but really could have gone even
further. Indigo Red had some nice shirts.
The day came alive with the 6 p.m.
show. Croskey Furs rocked the room. Here was creativity at work.
From the fun pieces like a bright orange fur bikini set and a black
fur miniskirt to serious designs such as beautifully quilted silk
jackets with puffy fur-lined hoods, Croskey Furs really showed the
length and breadth of their skill and talent. They showed gorgeous
"chubby" fur jackets, full-length sables and minks that
were the height of rich sophistication, and so much more. Another
runway hit was Croskey Fur’s cream quilted coat with a ranch hood
and ranch lining and border. With the use of fur back again after
the PETA years, this collection had
something for everyone and at everyone’s individual price range.
continued

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