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Lucire autumn-winter 2003

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Richard SpiegelRichard Spiegel

TOP ROW: Pelle Pelle. SECOND ROW, LEFT: Pelle Pelle. SECOND ROW, CENTRE: Indigo Red. SECOND ROW, RIGHT: Vokal. THIRD ROW, LEFT AND CENTRE: Giii & Carl Banks. THIRD ROW, RIGHT: Croskey Furs. ABOVE: Avirex.

The day came alive with the 6 p.m. show. Croskey Furs rocked the room. Here was creativity at work

   The day-long affair at the Crowne Plaza Hotel was broken up into four group shows highlighting the designs of newcomers to the scene (Stall and Dean, Vokal, Indigo Red) and veterans who have shown their previous collections at the Bryant Park tents (Rocawear Ladies, Pelle Pelle, Avirex). I was told by a fellow attendee that the earlier show collections are usually the weakest ones, which at the time I thought was slightly harsh. But that turned out to be a correct assessment.
   The 2 p.m. show showcased designs from Davoucci, Pass the Roc, Madsoul and PNB Nation. It wasn’t the best start to the day. With the exception of several outstanding pieces, it was a retread of hip-hip greatest hits: the tracksuit: the oversized hoodie jacket, basketball baggy shorts paired with equally oversized tops, baggy oversized denim pants and jackets. The standout pieces in this grouping were few and far between. They include Davoucci’s signature leather jackets in black and various shades of brown, a black leather-trimmed navy cardigan sweater (the best piece in the whole Davoucci collection) and Madsoul’s bright orange warm-up tracksuit (which made the cut because the colour itself was so outside the realm). I also though the “geeky” bowling shirts from the PNB Nation design team were cute, and a possible crossover hit.
   The 4 p.m. show (Stall and Dean, Indigo Red, Vokal, Giii & Carl Banks) was a slight improvement. Stall and Dean showed some of the best varsity letter jackets of the day. The Giii & Carl Banks design team showed denim with colourful graphic designs and sports-inspired wear (with jackets and shirts printed with the logos of teams from the NFL, NBA, NHL, MLB). At least they demonstrated some unexpected creativity in their execution but I was left with the following question: did they have permission to use those logos? Inquiring minds want to know. Vokal utilized velour in a very skilful manner but really could have gone even further. Indigo Red had some nice shirts.
   The day came alive with the 6 p.m. show. Croskey Furs rocked the room. Here was creativity at work. From the fun pieces like a bright orange fur bikini set and a black fur miniskirt to serious designs such as beautifully quilted silk jackets with puffy fur-lined hoods, Croskey Furs really showed the length and breadth of their skill and talent. They showed gorgeous "chubby" fur jackets, full-length sables and minks that were the height of rich sophistication, and so much more. Another runway hit was Croskey Fur’s cream quilted coat with a ranch hood and ranch lining and border. With the use of fur back again after the PETA years, this collection had something for everyone and at everyone’s individual price range.

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