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Javier Peral, musical director for Carolina Herrera, Luca Luca and Carmen Marc Valvo, has brought 21st-century music to 20th-century glamour

   Even the most mundane presen­tations can be enhanced by soundtracks of jarring lyrical prose or familiar tunes from the past. Javier Peral, the musical director for the elegant houses of Carolina Herrera, Luca Luca and Carmen Marc Valvo, has brought twenty-first-century music to twentieth-century glamour. Sometimes a simple presentation can say it all. The next four designers would just like you to look at their clothes.
   Herrera has been the favourite designer of many women on best-dressed lists. Inspired by heroines of Hitchcock and Wilder, the ’50s’ cinched waist, belted or tied, emphasized the full skirts of that era were free and easy. Hand-stitched leather, swakira and sable for luxury, softly shaped pinstripes, hounds­tooth and herringbone fabrics were popular fabrics for men and women. Recently, her gowns were chosen by Rénée Zellweger and Salma Hayek, both nominees for Oscars at the Academy Award ceremonies. Zellweger has recently become a leading fashion icon and credits Carolina Herrera for her newly acquired chic status.
   Luca Orlandi for Luca Luca continues to update his ’30s’ slinky, bias-cut looks. His dramatic all black-and-white fall–winter collection was highlighted with a few bright red, revealing satin dresses, one very short, the others long, sexy and curvy. The combination of black with white trim has become an important trend for fall–winter 2003–4, thanks in part to Luca Orlandi, who has been designing accessories as well.
   Chado Ralph Rucci presented his new ready-to-wear collection with most aware of his new status as a member of the haute couture collections, shown twice yearly in Paris. This collection is so beautifully crafted, one can only imagine how extraordinary the couture collection must be. He designs prints from his own watercolours and works closely with mills, developing new fabrics. The addition of Chado to his name is to honour his reverence for the Japanese ceremony of tea. There are flowing, wraparound furs, cashmere and leather coats, pants and skirts. Rucci’s evening gowns are truly works of his art.

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TOP FAR LEFT: Luca Luca satin dress with white details. TOP LEFT: Pesavento black draped, rusched satin–georgette cocktail dress with tails and train. LEFT: Carmen Marc Valvo black cashmere turtleneck sweater with an ivory satin face organza lotus skirt.