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   The best example of this was his leather and silk pieces in an “earth” and “desert” oil spill hand-painted print. In a time when leather has become such a pliable material, one couldn’t help but be impressed with his desert “oil spill” crushed leather trench coat or the accompanying leather pants. These pieces, by themselves, formed the backbone of the collection. This distinctive hand-painted print also showed up in slightly oversized bomber jackets, leather skirts, ruched mousseline silk pants and a sexy cocktail dress with an handkerchief

The best example of Kutoglu elevating his craft was his leather and silk pieces in an “earth” and “desert” oil spill hand-painted print

hemline and a plunging neckline.
   His coats ran the gamut from a beautiful crushed leather trench in black to cute boléro pieces paired with body-hugging dresses. However the best of the bunch, the numero uno coat of the collection was his ochre kangaroo coat with a raw edged gold–brown tone shearling lining. Worn over a chocolate silk blouse and gold striped silk and wool pants, this coat was a prime example of deconstructing without losing the inherent refinement of the design. The other standout pieces include a black wool boucle dress with a leather cowl neck detail, a flowing chocolate silk wrap-around evening gown with long sleeve slit detailing, a very tribal looking pistachio silk and rayon open back hooded dress and a hooded poppy pailette top paired with a black cloque (raised design with a puckered or blistered effect) cotton skirt.
   Of course, some of the designs failed to make the grade but this time around, Mr Kutoglu managed to hit most out of the ballpark than ever before. It is never easy being the new kid in school. You have to spend a certain amount of time learning the lay of the land. the good news is that Atil Kutoglu has learned his lessons well and is now ready to tutor other new students on how to succeed without selling your soul and what you hold dear in the process. •

Phillip D. Johnson is features’ editor of Lucire. Richard Spiegel is New York editor of Lucire.