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Statkevicius rocked the establishment enough for a début but not so much that potential investors and current backers shun him

 

Juozas Statkevicius

Statkevicius launched his Paris couture range with his dangerous ladies, the villainesses who have bloodthirsty power, sexuality and, as it turns out, style

by Jack Yan

Photographed by Frédéric de la Chapelle

 

EFORE THE WEEK was up, people were already referring to the new Lithuanian designer Juozas Statkevicius by his surname alone, just like ‘Valentino’. An unknown outside Lithuania till he showed his couture collection in Paris for winter 2003 at the Hotel Inter-continental, Statkevicius paraded his “dangerous ladies”, the villainesses hiding behind veils and crimes, down the catwalk.
   Like the villainess who tries to dominate, she does not take it all the way, being reserved in some respects lest she be found out by the authorities. Statkevicius was like that: great touches in cut and style but subdued by colour; rocking the establishment enough for a début but not so much that potential investors and current backers shun him.
   The collection could be described as dark and brooding, though highlighted by the quality and flamboyance of the garments. Statkevicius enhanced the darkness not just through lighting but by numerous models wearing fake blood, dripping from lips, nose or ears.

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