Statkevicius rocked the establishment enough for a début
but not so much that potential investors and current backers shun him
Statkevicius launched his Paris couture range
with his dangerous ladies, the villainesses who have bloodthirsty
power, sexuality and, as it turns out, style
by Jack Yan
Photographed by Frédéric
de la Chapelle
EFORE THE WEEK was up, people were
already referring to the new Lithuanian designer Juozas Statkevicius
by his surname alone, just like Valentino. An unknown
outside Lithuania till he showed his couture collection in Paris
for winter 2003 at the Hotel Inter-continental, Statkevicius paraded
his dangerous ladies, the villainesses hiding behind
veils and crimes, down the catwalk. Like
the villainess who tries to dominate, she does not take it all the
way, being reserved in some respects lest she be found out by the
authorities. Statkevicius was like that: great touches in cut and
style but subdued by colour; rocking the establishment enough for
a début but not so much that potential investors and current
backers shun him.
The collection could be described as dark and
brooding, though highlighted by the quality and flamboyance of the
garments. Statkevicius enhanced the darkness not just through lighting
but by numerous models wearing fake blood, dripping from lips, nose
or ears.