ALL
2002 comprised collections focusing on clothes that women need in their
wardrobe. A lavish black evening gown, that little black dress, a pair
of utilitarian slacks or a practical functional blouse. There’s nothing
wrong with providing clothes of this nature because let’s face it, all
women need these items in today’s society.
But Vivienne Tam has once again drawn upon her Asian
culture to bring us yet another Asian-inspired collection. I remember
her fall 2001 collection which was drawn from Crouching Tiger, Hidden
Dragon and possibly The Matrix, which left me confused; her
colour palette of green and red left a sense of trepidation. I found those
colours hard to grasp.
I come from a horse-racing background and I have always
gone by the words of Wayne D. Lukas:‘Always forgive a horse for
one bad race.’ I was ready to forgive Vivienne Tam for fall 2001, but
was my forgiveness rewarded?
Another Asian collection trounced down the runway, evoking
a more tribal feel. The range came adorned with Chinese coins in various
shapes and sizes and Mongolian fur used in places. There were Chinese
letters and symbols, which dot the collection. This may be wonderful for
differentiation, but is it what customers want? Or is the problem the
fact this collection is Asian-inspired, or simply that it does not take
the balance and finesse that we have come to expect from Asian design?
There was uncertainty over the direction here and we could not fathom
it.
But there was a pair of black leather pants which I
just died over and I really loved. I can understand one’s love of culture
and country and being proud. However, there is a danger that in a global
market, not everybody is going to understand a designer’s message being
too directed culturally. Knowing one’s customer is the key to success
in fashion, but to look beyond that is a risky game most choose not to
partake in. We can either congratulate Ms Tam for her courage, or reserve
judgement till this range makes it into the stores. Richard Spiegel
ALL
2002 comprised collections focusing on clothes that women need in their
wardrobe. A lavish black evening gown, that little black dress, a pair
of utilitarian slacks or a practical functional blouse. There’s nothing
wrong with providing clothes of this nature because let’s face it, all
women need these items in today’s society. 
Richard Spiegel
