Paris’s young talent caught the eye of the powers-that-be at LVMH, but there was an earthy theme to several of them

PHOTOGRAPHED BY FRÉDÉRIC DE LA CHAPELLE

N our last visit of the Paris collections from last season, we have to point out that while young talent experimented with cut and styling, there was a very non-couture-like theme of browns and burgundies.
   Dupré–Santabarbara’s Gallic heroines brought back the imagery of Joan of Arc with battle hoods and capes, predominantly dressing them in brown and earth tones. This season, our first glimpses show that they have gone with similar colour themes but spring–summer inspiration has crossed the Atlantic for the shores of Argentina.
   It was a patriotic choice certain to get attention in Paris, though surprisingly the relatively new label wound up with comparatively little coverage during the week. Yet it was not merely a cynical marketing exercise: Dupré–Santabarbara had a useful theme, cohesive design and plenty of integrity around its dresses.

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Dupré–Santabarbara brought back the imagery of Joan of Arc